…only in Morocco. I thought watching a guy cement my host brother’s floor was worthy of a separate blog, and here I sit in my house at 11:30 at night, watching three worker’s just getting started (we’re talking, just taking stuff out of the boxes) installing my new air conditioner (yes, yes… I spend a month’s "wages" on a wall-mounted air conditioner when the temperature never got below 107 degrees for 7 days running) J 

The guy I bought it from delivered it at 11:00pm from a neighboring city, and the installers showed up a ½ hour later to start putting it in.  Because its still 100 degrees, I’m happy as shit (sitting here with "the boys") just staying up and watching the entertainment, because I’m really looking forward to that sucker cooling things down (even if it’s 3 in the morning).  …actually, 3:00 in the morning is no big deal around these parts.  No one goes to bed before then anyway.  At least I sure as hell hope not, because I see they’re bringing in some pretty heavy-duty power tools to attack my wall!

We look for entertainment where we can find it in Sidi Bou Othmane!!!  I may charge my neighbors a slight fee for watching.

I’ll call this one “Summer time in Morocco.”

One constant throughout my blogs is the absence of doing any meaningful work (you may not have even noticed that, of all the things I talk about, doing Peace Corps “Youth Development” work isn’t one of them.

That is because Morocco generally and my site (Sidi Bou Othmane) in particular pretty much shuts down during the summer months.  Even more so than the citizenry of Europe, people travel during the summer in Morocco.  And of course the tourist sites of Morocco don’t shut down (Marrakech, Agadir, etc.), but Sidi Bou Othmane is not one of those sites J 

So, in terms of working with youth, there is a dearth of opportunities.  The few “youts” that are around have no interest in doing anything but sit around (much like I do) and be couch potatoes.

Now perhaps a more motivated PCV could find more to do and fewer excuses, but that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.  I’m supposed to be “integrating into my community” during the first few months, and if you don’t count the fact that I sit on my couch every day that I ‘m not traveling to other cities, that’s just what I’m doing. J

Which brings me to the amazing point of this blog.  I would need to pull out a calendar to calculate it exactly, but as near as I can tell, I have spent (and will spend)almost twice as much time out of my site (in various forms of having fun) than I’ve spent in it, over my first four months, and we’re not even allowed vacation time during our first three months!

A brief look at my schedule includes trips to Rabat (coastal city, 18, days total), Casablanca (coastal city, 3 days), El Jdida (coastal city, 5 days), Asfi (coastal city, 14 days), Essaouira (coastal city, 9 days), Agadir (coastal city, 4 days), Marrakech (awesome city, pbly. 20+ days), and Prague, the Czech Republic (speaks for itself, 5 days). 

Now the Asfi trip is actually a Summer Kids’ Camp where I will work (camp is from August 20-30).  But, Ryan, Lee, Tiara, and Mallory will all be there, so it will also be a great time with great friends, I have no doubt.

Prague is so I can see my good, good friends, Maria and Don, who will be there during that time.

Rabat was both Peace Corps swearing in and two weeks of “medical” which means the Peace Corps paid my way to be there so that the PC doctors could evaluate a pain I had in my leg.  They never figured out what the pain was, but I got to spend two weeks in “heaven” with cool sites, cool temperatures, and lots of pampering (which wasn’t on the PC’s nickel, but I’m okay with that).  Also, probably 20 PCV's passed through Rabat during that time for one reason or another and so I got to hang out with a bunch of friends during that time.

Agadir was a PC regional meeting, but the meeting part of the day lasted only about 6 hours, and the rest of the time was spent with Ryan, Lee, and other good friends hanging out at the beach (water temp, 82 degrees) and doing a little partying.

Two weeks of the Marrakech time is also PC meetings, but will bring together for the first time ALL of the PCV’s from all over Morocco, so we will definitely have a good time!!!  The rest of my "Marrakech time" was spent with family and friends without even a pretense of working :)

El Jdida is a PC regional “Youth and Sport” meeting which, near as I can tell, is nothing more than having a little extra money in the budget that has to be spent before fiscal year, and so we get to go hang out at the ocean again (and again, with Ryan and Lee, because we’re all in the same region).

Essaouira has been my “home away from home” as its on the coast, averages probably 70 degrees, is beautiful, and is only 4 hours by bus away (which may seem like a long trip, but when you live in the absolute middle of nowhere, traveling 4 hours to get to the coast is like a bee-bop).

So its “give, give, give” joining the Peace Corps.  Its not for everyone.  I mean, you have to rush home, do your laundry, and head right back out again!

Theoretically, I will be actually working in-site beginning in October, and then its going to be “fingers-to-the-bone”!  The PC expects at least 15 hours a week out of me which, given my schedule, is going to be hard to satisfy J Truly, I am both anxious and excited to get going on some fun things in my site, and will be (hopefully), keeping busy.

There went the “call to prayer” signifying that I can break my fast, so I have no f***ing idea why I’m even finishing this last sentence rather than throwing some cold water down my throat before I go over to Tariq’s for breakfast!

I’ll call this blog: “Ramadan In The Hottest Part of the Summer.”

Ramadan for those who don’t know is an Islamic holiday lasting 30 days, where all people of the Muslim faith must abstain from food, drink, cigarettes, (and even sex) from daybreak to sunset.  This year, it is from July 21^st to August 20^th (or something like that; I’m not sure if even the practicing Muslims know for sure).

I say “this year” because Ramadan is based upon a lunar calendar and so changes by several days each year (vis a vis our “solar” calendar).  Of course, this means that in any 100 years-or-so period, it will only be during the very hottest part of the summer for perhaps five years.  It also means that, because the days are “longest” during this time of year (meaning daybreak to sunset lasts what seems to be about 23 ½ hours per day, but is actually about 15 hours), the period of fasting is also the longest it will ever be. Of course, this is the time I chose to be here!

And lest you think that this is simply knowledge being imparted without any special significance to me, think again!  Because I too am trying to follow the custom and cultural norm of Morocco, and fast with my brethren!  Actually, my goal is to adhere to the principles of Ramadan while at my site, but not necessarily be as strict when I’m out of site.  I’m actually being pretty good (which means I would be an absolutely horrible Muslim, because I haven’t been perfect) most of the time.  Today, for example, is 120 degrees, and I’ve gone 17 hours without a drop to drink.  

How is that possible, you ask?  It is because I conserve 99.9999% of my energy by doing absolutely nothing all day long!!!  I have even waited til 6:00 pm to type this blog, because believe it or not, just typing can cause me to break out in a sweat.  I try not to even shift my position on the couch during the hottest part of the day :)   Its awesome redefining the phrase “couch potato.” 

The idea behind Ramadan is that making this sacrifice brings people closer to Allah and allows them to better appreciate what Allah provides.  The most wonderful thing about Ramadan is “breakfast.”  Of course, we think of breakfast as our morning coffee and muffin, but the “breaking of the fast” in Islam occurs at sundown, and is something to behold.  It is a celebration of accomplishing your daily objective, and is relished with a vengeance. 

There is actually a very set meal that is laid out in very house and restaurant in Morocco for ftur (“breakfast” in Darija).  You start by saying “bismillah” (the traditional acknowledgement before each meal) and then eat a date (the sweet, eating kind).  Then there is harrara (Moroccan soup, which is delicious), some sort of juice, coffee, tea, misimin (traditional thin bread), more dates, and then sometimes another dish or two that varies from household to household.

 Notice that “water” isn’t even on the list because it seems to be an afterthought here!  Unlike what you might think, people aren’t racing to quench their thirst the moment they are permitted. Instead, they tend to sip a little water at the end of breakfast just to rinse their palate.  In fact, it would be very bad form to drink water before finishing ftur!

Also note that of all the things mentioned on the list, pretty much all of them with the exception of the harrara are sweet.  The coffee and tea are laced with as much sugar as will dissolve in water, and goes very well with the dates, juice, sweet bread, etc.  I swear the evolution of the Moroccan body is amazing!  Starve and thirst (can I use that word in this context) yourself for 15 hours, then eat a whole bunch of sweets but no water.  Maybe you’re starting to see why I’m only “pretty good” at fasting.

And to make it that much crazier (for me, at least) is the crazy eating schedule that is necessitated by the hour of breakfast.  Because we eat breakfast at 8:00pm and one must begin fasting at 4:30 in the morning, you might think that people are only getting one meal per day.  Not so!  After breakfast, everyone goes to the Mosque, and then prepares for supper!  Now if you’re like me, you’re still full and not the least bit interested in eating at 11:00 or midnight, but that is when the big dog is fed! 

Okay… so Muslims survive on two meals a day during Ramadan, you say.  Wrong again!  Most people stay awake through the wee hours, and have a big… well, I don’t know exactly what you call the morning meal, because it sure isn’t breakfast when you just ate four hours ago.  …but anyway, they have another meal just before the sun comes up.  Then, if you’re in the minority of people that are employed, you then head off to work.  For most however, its bedtime, often sleeping into the afternoon.

For those that work, there is some solace because the workday is significantly shortened (with most people finishing work by 3:00pm).  It actually isn’t a short work day however, because the normal work hours in Morocco allow for a 2-3 hour break in the afternoon (followed by a return to work until late evening or early nighttime).  They simply forego the afternoon break, and so have an opportunity to sleep for a few hours before breakfast.

Crazy, eh?

Because I truly try to adhere to the customs, I do indeed do my best to fast during the day and eat the traditional breakfast at sundown.  Of course, I go to my host family’s every day for breakfast, because they love me and I love them, but it makes sneaking a t-bone at sunset nigh impossible.  And because my body cannot handle eating two meals back-to-back, I end up eating one date and about 4 bowls of Tariq’s mom’s harrara (the absolute best harrara in the world).  Then I’m “one-and-done.”  I beg off on the supper, and try to get some sleep (which has yet to occur until after midnight).

Then, every morning at 3:00am Otman (another good friend) calls me (he is still up) and wakes me so that I can get something to eat before the sun comes up.  Then its right back to bed til 9:00.  I have to get up at 9:00 so I can get in a comfortable sitting position where I will spend the remainder of the day :)

Pretty enviable lifestyle, you’re thinking, right?  The good news is that it is over half over (hopefully), and I spent almost two weeks in Rabat during Ramadan, where I wasn’t perhaps all that dedicated to the Ramadan dictates (and Rabat averaged 75 degrees).

Well; enough for now.  One hour til breakfast.  Otman and Tariq are sitting on the other two couches/ponjs, playing games on my/Tariq’s Kindle Fires.  They spend every day here (its actually the coolest home around, due to how the sun passes over). Otman, Tariq, and other brother Aniss (who works in Marrakech but comes home every afternoon) will then come over after prayer and spend some time before they head off to supper (so far continually failing to convince me to join them).

My host family home (which is actually very nice on the inside)

The fortress at Essaouira

Lee and Tricia at the "party riad" in Essaouira during Ganoa

Some of the dogs (Taira on the left)

Lee's site just east of Essaouira

Ryan and I cooling it at a 5 star hotel in Essaouira

Berber fighters (re-enacted)

Rabat was tough living

Hey... I was recuperating from a leg ailment, already...

Molly, Tariq, Tariq's wife, Tariq's sister, and me riding around Marrakech in a horse and buggy

Tariq, Samia (sister, on left) and Rosa (wife)

Beautiful garden in 'kech

One bad-ass dude!  ...ok, it wore off two weeks later.

To be a cat in Essaouira is like being a dog at the Becker households

Henna is the coolest, as Mole will attest

Hash is huge in Morocco

Drinking coffee and looking out at the Jamma Lfina in Marrakech

From our hotel room window in Essaouira (both Molly and  I and Dad and I stayed in this room during their visit.